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Selasa, 20 April 2010

Indonesian Batik

BATIK

Indonesian Batik

Batik (Batik or word) comes from Javanese language "Amba" meaning to write and "point." The word refers to fabrics with batik patterns produced by the material "night" (wax) is applied to the fabric, so resist the entry of food color (dye), or in English is "wax-resist dyeing".

Batik is a craft that has high artistic value and has become part of Indonesian culture (especially Java) since long. Javanese women in the past to make their skills in batik making a livelihood, so that in the past, batik work is exclusively women's work until the invention of "Batik Cap" which allows the entry of men into the field. There are some exceptions to this phenomenon, namely the coastal batik which has a line of masculine as can be seen in the style of "Mega Overcast", where in some areas of coastal batik work is common for men.

Variety of styles and colors Batik is influenced by various foreign influences. Initially, batik has a variety of styles and colors are limited, and some patterns may only be used by certain circles. However, coastal batik absorb various external influences, such as foreign traders and also in the end, the invaders. Bright colors like red, popularized by the Tionghoa, who also popularized the style of the phoenix. European colonial nations are also taking interest in batik, and the result is a style of flowers that were not known (such as tulips) and also the items taken by the colonizer (buildings or train a horse), including their favorite colors like blue. Retaining traditional batik 's type, and is still used in traditional ceremonies, because it usually has the hue of each respective symbols.

Batik technique has been known for thousands of years ago. There is no historical information is quite clear about the origins of batik. Some suspect this technique comes from the Sumerian, then developed in Java after being taken by Indian traders. Currently batik can be found in many countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, India, Sri Lanka, and Iran. Besides Asia, batik is also very popular in some countries on the African continent. However, batik, which is very famous in the world is derived from Indonesian batik, especially from Java.

Batik tradition was originally a hereditary tradition, so occasionally a recognizable motif batik originated from a particular family. Some batik may indicate the status of a person. Even today, some Traditional batik motifs used only by the family of Yogyakarta and Surakarta palace.

Batik is an ancestral heritage of Indonesia (Java) that until now still there. Batik is also first introduced to the world by President Suharto, who at that time wore batik at the UN Conference.


Ways of making

Batik originally made on material with white color made of cotton cloth called. Today batik is also made on other materials such as silk, polyester, rayon and other synthetic materials. Batik pattern is formed with a liquid wax using a tool called a canting for subtle motifs, or large-sized brush for a motive, so that the liquid wax to seep into the fabric fibers. Fabrics that have been painted with wax and then dyed with the desired color, usually starting from the colors of young. Immersion then taken to another motif with older or dark colors. After some time the coloring process, which has dibatik cloth soaked in chemicals to dissolve the wax.


Type batik

• Batik paper is decorated with fabric texture and style of batik by hand. Batik making this type takes approximately 2-3 months.
• Batik cap is decorated with fabric textures and patterns created with batik stamp (usually made of copper). The process of batik making this type require at least 2-3 days.

Source: http://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batik







BATIK DEFINITION, TYPES AND HOW TO MAKE A BATIK BATIK

Now this word batik is already widely known abroad. Both women and men of Indonesia from berbagian tribes who liked to wear fabric decorated with a pattern of batik or batik fabric itself, which is made according to taste and cut, respectively. The foreign tourists or foreign officials who lived in Indonesia dote batik and often take it home as a by-oleh.Batik is one that has become a cultural arts in Indonesia, particularly in the areas of Java. Batik has been recognized by Indonesian society since the days majapahit. Therefore Batik certainly has an interesting history, both from the meaning of the word, usage, to weave.

"The meaning of the word batik: art expert scholars, both Indonesian nationals or foreign nation, have not reached an agreement about what it actually does the word batik. Some say that the term comes from the word batik tick embedded in the word dot. Point means also drops. Indeed in the making of batik cloth was also carried penetesan candles on a white cloth. There is also a search for origin of the word batik in ancient written sources. According to this opinion, the word batik is associated with the word, writing or painting. Thus, the origin of batik is associated also with painting and drawing in general. "

(Www.seasite.niu.Edu / Indonesian / budaya_bangsa / batik)
The origin of Batik is still unclear. Batik can be found in various Asian countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and Sri Lanka. Besides batik is also found in several countries in Africa. But Still the most famous Batik in the world is derived from Indonesian batiks.

"Also in Asia, batik is also very popular in some countries on the African continent. However, batik, which is very famous in the world is derived from Indonesian batik, especially from Java. "
(Id.wikipedia.org / wiki / Batik)

Variety of styles and colors Batik is influenced by various foreign influences. Originally, batik has a variety of styles and colors are limited, and some patterns may only be used by certain circles. However, coastal batik absorb various external influences, such as foreign traders and also in the end, the invaders. Bright colors like red, popularized by the Tionghoa, who also popularized the style of the phoenix. European colonial nations are also taking interest in batik, and the result is a style of flowers that were not known (such as tulips) and also the items taken by the colonizer (buildings or train a horse), including their favorite colors like blue. Retaining traditional batik 's type, and is still used in traditional ceremonies, as usually each style has their own symbols.

Batik in Indonesia have been there on royal majapahit. Batik first intended only for the families of kings alone. Along with the development of an era, any part of batik in Indonesia developed into the arts that exist in almost all parts of Indonesia.

Batik art is the art of drawing on the fabric for clothing that becomes one of the family culture Indonesian kings of old. Batik initially worked in the palace just limited to clothing and the result was the king and family and his followers. Because many of the followers of the king who lived outside the palace, the art of batik was brought by the palace and carried them out in place of each.
(Id.wikipedia.org / wiki / Batik)

The history of batik in Indonesia associated with the development of the Majapahit kingdom and the kingdom afterwards. In some records, the development of batik is mostly done during the dark days of the Mataram kingdom, then in the kingdom of Solo and Yogyakarta.

In the development of batik art was gradually imitated by the people nearest and subsequently expanded into the work of women in the household to fill his spare time. Furthermore, batik clothing was only the royal family, then became a popular folk clothes, both women and men. White fabric that is used when it is the result of homespun. Coloring materials being used consists of plants native to Indonesia who made their own from among others: noni tree, tall, soga, indigo, and materials made from soda ash soda, as well as salts made from mud.



COMPONENTS BATIK


Color

Certain spectrum of color is contained in a perfect light (white). The identity of a color determined the wavelength of light. As an example of a blue color has a wavelength of 460 nanometers.

Wavelength colors that the human eye can still be captured ranged from 380-780 nanometers.

In optical devices, color interpretation of the brain may also refer to a mixture of three primary colors of light: red, green, blue which are incorporated in certain compositions. For example mixing 100% red, 0% green, and blue will produce 100% magenta color interpretation.

In art, the colors can mean a certain reflection of light which is influenced by the pigments contained in the object's surface. For example mixing magenta and cyan pigments with the proportion of white light illuminated the right and perfect will produce a sensation similar to a red color.

Each color can give a certain impression and identity according to social conditions observer. For example the white color will give the impression pure and cold in the west because of its association with snow. While most countries in Eastern white color gives the impression of death and is very scary because it is associated with the shroud (although theoretically not the actual white color).

In the science of color, black is considered as the absence of all types of waves of color. While white is considered as a representation by the presence of all colors wave balanced proportions. Scientifically, they are not the color, although it can be presented in the form of pigments.


Color Grouping

• neutral colors, are colors that no longer has a purity of color or in other words is not a primary or secondary color. This color is a mixture of the three color components simultaneously, but not in exactly the same composition.
• Colour contrast, is an impressive color contrast with one another. Color contrast can be obtained from the opposite color (the midpoint of the triangle cut) is made up of primary colors and secondary colors. But do not close the possibility of also forming a color contrast to reject the value or purity of color. Examples of contrasting color is red with green, yellow with purple and blue with orange.
• Color of heat, is a group of colors within the range of half-circles within circles of color from red to yellow. This became a symbol color, cheerful, excited, angry etc. Hot colors impressive distances.
• Color the cold, are a group of colors within the range of a half-circle inside the circle of colors ranging from green to purple. This color is a symbol of tenderness, cool, comfortable and so on. Cool colors impressive distances.



Substance Dyes

Seen From a source of textile dyes obtained is divided into 2, namely:
1. natural dyes, derived from nature that is bersal of animals (lac dyes) or plants can be derived from the root, stem, leaf, fruit, bark and flowers.
2. Synthetic dyes are artificial dyes (chemical dyes). Hence the number of these synthetic dyestuff for coloration of the batik dye should be chosen:
a. Use in cold conditions or if the process does not require temperature heat until melelehlan candles.
b. Drugs do not help him destroy the candle and do not cause further hardship on the process effortless.
Batik craftsmen have many familiar plants that can color some of which are textile materials: tree leaf indigo (indofera), skin soga tree height (Ceriops candolleana arn), wood tegeran (cudraina javanensis), turmeric (curcuma), tea ( the), root (Morinda Citrifelia), skin soga jambal (pelthophorum ferruginum), kesumba (bixa orelana), leaves of guava (Psidium guajava). (Sewan Susanto, 1973).

According R.H.MJ. Lemmens and N-Soetjipto Wulijarni in his Southeast Asian Vegetable Resources Nn.3 (plants producing dyes and tannins, 1999), most colors can be obtained from plant products, the plant pigments found in plants of different colors depending penimbul according to structure chemical properties. In general olongan plant pigments are chlorophyll, carotenoids, flovonoid and quinones. The vegetable dyes used for coloring textiles can be classified into 4 types according to its nature:
1. Direct Dyes from hydrogen bonding with hydroxyl groups of fibers, dye fastness is easy for example (curcumin)
2. Acid and alkaline dyes, each of which combines with wool and silk asambasa group, while cotton can not be lasting color if colored; example is the flavonoid pigments.
3. Dyes fat back on the fiber caused by redox processes, these dyes often show a wonderful eternity to light and laundering (eg tarum).
4. Mordant dyes that can color the textiles that have been granted in the form of compounds mordant et al polivalen; coloring agents can be highly conserved example alizarin and morindin.

In dyeing with natural dyes are generally required mordanting workmanship on materials that will be dyed / stamped mordanting where the process is done by immersing the material into metal salts, such as aluminum, iron, tin or chrome. Mordant substances serves to form a chemical bridge between the natural dyes with fiber so that the affinity of dyes increases with the fiber. This is in accordance with the results of the study changes in physical and chemical properties due to natural dye silk mulberry root bark by Tiani and Dasep devoted Hamid (2005) showed that the use of mordant can reduce the influence of fabric colors kelunturan laundering. This shows mordant compound capable of binding the color so it does not easily fade.


Line

The line is a result of scratches on the surface of the object / image area. According to the line shape can be distinguished as follows:
• Straight line (vertical, horizontal, and inclined)
• curved lines
• The dotted lines
• Outline wave
• Zig-Zag Lines
• Line imaginative



GEAR batik

Equipment batik people do not undergo much change from the first until now. Viewed from the equipment and how to do batik can be classified as a work that is traditional.

1. Gawangan
Gawangan is a tool for menyangkutkan and unfurled during dibatik mori. Gawangan made of wood or bamboo. Gawangan must be made in such a way that easily removable, but must be strong and lightweight.

2. Pendulum
Pendulum is made of tin, or wood, or stone pocketed. Principal function is to hold the pendulum new mori dibatik tergesar not easy to wind, or pull the pembantik by accident.

3. Pan
Wok is the tool to release the "night". Pan made of steel, or clay. Skillet should be stemmed so easily raised and lowered from the furnace without using other tools.

4. Stove
Stove is a tool to make a fire. Digunakanadalah ordinary stove burner with fuel oil.

5. Table cloth
Tablecloth is a cloth to cover the thigh so as not taxable pembantik droplets "night" when canting hot blown, or when making batik.

6. Filter "night"
The filter is a tool to filter out "night" feces lots of heat. If the "night" is filtered, then the dirt can be removed so as not to disturb the course of "night" on the front line when used for batik canting.

7. Canting
Canting is a tool used to move or take liquids. Canting for the batik is a small tool made from copper and bamboo as the handle. This canting batik patterns are used to write with a liquid wax. Before plastic materials widely used as household goods, canting made from coconut shells are used as one of the kitchen equipment as a bailer. Today canting coconut shell is rarely seen anymore since replaced by other materials such as plastics. Canting to membatikpun slowly replaced with Teflon.

8. Mori
Mori is the raw material of cotton batik. Mori Kwalitet variety, and so determines a good or bad kind of batik cloth produced. Mori required in accordance with the short length of the desired fabric. Mori short length is usually not by the standards for sure, but with the traditional size. The traditional size is called "handkerchief". Handkerchief handkerchief is usually a square. So-called "sekacu" is the size of the square mori, mori widths were taken from them. So long sekacu of a different type of memory will long mori sekacu from other species.

9. Candles ("Night")
Candles or "night" means the material used for making batik. Actually "night" is not empty (missing), because eventually taken back to the process mbabar, workmanship of the batik process until batikan into cloth. "Night" which is used for batik is different from ordinary night or candles. Night fast for the batik is absorbed in the fabric but can easily escape when pelorotan process.

10. Pattern
The pattern is a motif of batik in a specific size for example mori batik motifs that will be created. There are two kinds of pattern size. A pattern is a pattern whose length-width mori. Pattern B is one third the length of the pattern mori, or a third of the length of the pattern A. if the pattern of A 1 / 4 handkerchief, ola B 1 / 12 handkerchief; Pattern A ½ handkerchief, a pattern B 1 / 6 handkerchief. The definition of the pattern of ¼, ½ or 1 / 3 handkerchief is the width of the pattern 1 / 4, ½, or 1 / 3 the size of a side sekacu mori. But the size of the patterns A and B are often not what is said above, because each piece is not used in memory, or because the size of memory is not always the same width.


KINDS BATIK

A. Batik Chinatown / Chinese
Chinese people have long been known as the Nation nomads. They are also known firm in preserving the indigenous culture of his ancestors. Usually in their overseas countries integrate their culture with local culture as a form of acculturation. So also happened in Indonesia, particularly in Batik. Descendants of the nomads Chinese in Indonesia are usually produced batik for the community itself or also traded. Batik Batik production of so-called Chinatown is characterized by the bright colors and varied enough, in many display a wide piece of fabric colors. Motif that is used a lot to enter the Chinese cultural elements such as motifs or peacock phoenix, and dragon. Usually Chinatown batik pattern is more complicated and subtle. In antiquity shaped batik sarong Chinatown coupled with Encim Kebaya as a fashion typical of Chinese women in Indonesia. In the Pekalongan Batik famous Chinatown produce one of them is Tan Tjie Hou.

B. Dutch Batik
In the Dutch colonial era, of course many Dutch citizens who lived and settled in Indonesia. They apparently also interested in local culture. Just as Chinese citizens, citizens of Dutch descent many also make and produce batik. Batik produced offspring Dutch citizen has its own characteristics. Motif that is used most of the flowers which is widely available in Europe such as Tulip and motives of the characters well-known fairy tales in there. Batik is a very popular model in Europe. People who make the famous Dutch Batik in Pekalongan, namely Van Zuylen and J. Jans. Their works dominated the 20th-century ago.

C. Batik Rifa'iyah
Batik is a type of strong Islamic influence. In the Islamic culture motif - the motif associated with inanimate objects can not be described exactly the same as in the original. According to that pattern in batik motif rifa'iyah especially those about animals seen his head cut off. Because the teachings of Islam all lawful form of animal sacrifices which had to cut his head. Usually, citizens of Arab descent produce this kind of batik.

D. Kraton of Batik Effect
Pekalongan batik makers often make batik motif is characteristic of Batik Kraton Yogyakarta or Surakarta. The motive force in the life of the palace which is usually the cement, cuwiri, machetes etc.. Although the influence of the palace but the pattern making techniques and pewarnaanya Pekalongan style. So the more unique and interesting. Please note style coastal style Pekalongan is so much more free and have a variety of outside influences

E. New Javanese Batik
In the era of Javanese batik production after Hokokay. In the New Java Batik motifs and colors that exist in the era of Javanese batik Hokokay more streamlined, but still distinctively early evening without tumpal. Most use a motif of flower arrangements and lung - lungan

F. Batik Jlamprang
Motive - a motive Jlamprang or in Yogyakarta with nitik name is one of the most popular batik produced in the area Krapyak Pekalongan. This is a development of the batik motifs from India Potola geometrically shaped or star-shaped eyes sometimes the wind and use the twig ends square. Batik is perpetuated Jlamprang be one way in Pekalongan.

G. Batik Light of the Moon
A batik design in which the ornament only in the bottom of it either in the form of lung - lungan or ornament in the form of stocks it is empty or a point - the point. Batik is also called the Light of the Moon Gedong or Ram - Raman.

H. Write Combination Batik Cap
Batik batik combination actually write where a second process or before disoga direntes or write so dirining by batik batik looks like it was written. This was done to accelerate the production of batik and uniformity.

I. Three State Pekalongan Batik
Like batik - batik other countries where there is a red color blue cloth soga who all made in Pekalongan sometimes replaced blue purple and green.

J. Pekalongan Sogan
Batik with twice the process whereby the first process there is sometimes a white background coletan, and for a second process of batik full ditanahi plataran ornament or the form of new fine point after that disoga. Batik Soga classic look

K. Tribusana
Represents a new style of batik-making process in which ways the two direntas or riningan and most motive - his motive lung - lungan lanjuran. Batik Tribusana have an annual and plain.

L. Batik Food / Farmers
Batik is created as a diversion activities at home housewives dikala not go into the fields or during leisure time. This batik is usually coarse and clumsy and not smooth. Hereditary motive according their respective regions and batik was not done because only as a sideline professional. For staining were included into the merchant.

M. Coletan
Where in a batik cloth stained in some places using a brush and dab system for dyeing only once unless soga color, other colors use a dab.

N. Batik Kemodelan
Is batik - both classical batik from Yogyakarta and Solo style, made with a new composition by staining Pekalongan and modern look. This is very popular in the era of Sukarno era to make batik Yogyakarta and Solo to add color.

O. Batik Osdekan
In a batik cloth will arise again dibatik one color will continue to be overwritten with another color in the form of both young and old color or other colors, it makes the colors more vivid and batiks like there are shadows.

P. Modern Batik
Batik is in the process, especially in the coloration of a new system, which is usually in the dyeing is now using another system either tu form, grading, wood grain or broklat hurdles. These motifs are motifs which have relationship with aesthetics. The composition of this batik freestyle popular in an era of 80 years.

Q. Contemporary batik
A batik batik look unusual, but still uses the same manufacturing process to make batik.

R. Batik Cap. Batik making using the tool beebentuk either seal or stamp or keliran coletan process

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